The last days of our expedition contained some spicy and exciting moments: after a rest day due to strong wind, we went back in the kayaks and covered half of the remaining distance to our destination. Just before landing on the shore one of us capsized into the water, luckily with no consequences and just before the place where we planned to sleep. The very same night we slept in an abandoned house and at 5 in the morning we were woken up by a polar bear. The animal was curiously smelling our feet at less than one meter from us. We started yelling and screaming, hitting things on the ground and we managed somehow to scare the bear, which took some distance from us and eventually left. We baptised the bear Berta. She was really cute but too chubby for our taste. So we began our last kayaking day with perfect sea and wind conditions. About 2 hours far from ittoqqotoormit the wind started blowing and our easy last day pleasure cruise suddenly became a regatta race against wind and waves. A proper conclusion for an amazing expedition. We arrived in ittoqotoormiit yesterday afteroon, 32 days after our start. Our trip is now really over. We re looking forward to seeing you all in Italy and Switzerland and tell you more about our adventure.
Matteo, Silvan & Laddy
We are now at more than half of the way back with kayaks. After the first paddling day with good conditions a low pressure system arrived on our area. We had two rest days with strong wind and rain, then despite no big improvements in the weather we decided to restart. Yesterday we paddled 7 hours under constant rain and low temperatures, today luckily the weather got better and we did another full day in the kayaks. We feel now pretty close to our final destination, with good conditions in two days we can be back in ittoqotoormiit. But it s over only when it s over and it s possible that we ll find the most tricky conditions on our very last day.
After a few days of bad weather the sun came back in our base camp and we took the chance for a last ascent. Here the Days are getting shorter and also the temperatures are everyday lower, the good season for rock climbing is probably over and so we decided for a more alpine objective. In 14 hours camp to camp we did the possible first ascent of one of the highest mountains in the range, the route we followed is most likely the easiest line on this mountain and it involves classic snow, ice and mixed terrain for a total of 1800 meters difference in altitude from the base to the summit.
Now we are already back to the fjord and tomorrow we want to start our long way back with kayaks.
After climbing shark s tooth we didn t rest that much. We took advantage of the last days of good weather for making another climb. We hiked a dozen of km further inside the valley and opened a new route on a 600 meters tall pillar. We named this route oasis because of the warm and pleasant conditions we found during our climb.
Then yesterday the weather turned bad, with rain at the base camp and snow on the mountains. We decided to anticipate our return flight to Iceland on the 11th of september. Therefore the plans for the next days are doing another ascent in the mountains, if the conditions will allow and then start the long way home by foot and kayak to ittoqotoormiit.
On august 18th we arrived on the summit of shark s tooth! We opened a new route in the very center of the north east face. The climb took three days, we climbed all the route onsight with continuous and sustained difficulties. The route follows the obvious crack sistem in the center of the wall, with some traverses for connecting the different cracks. The overall lenght of the route is more than 900 meters, and the rock was not always of the best quality: the crux pitches offered some runouts on loose flakes and poor protections. However we were able to complete our climb without using bolts for free climbing, we put only one for hanging the portaledge and one for a short rappel which the leader free climbed. The fourth day we descended the mountain rappelling the russian route on the arete, thus our line is basically clean as we found it. It was a great team success! We named our route THE GREAT SHARK HUNT to recall the long journey which led us to this summit. Climbing, mountaineering, adventure and life can t be better than this for us. We want to thank everybody who believed and supported our project.
After finishing paddling we had two days of hiking for carrying all the gear to the place where we did the basecamp. We had two long journeys with heavy backpacks to cover the 20-25km on glacier and moraine.This morning the weather it was rainy, thus we took our First rest day after 9 days of no siesta. We packed our bags and tomorrow we are heading to shark s tooth! It s hard to say how the climbing will be since we have never seen the wall from a short distance but we planned 4 days and a half of climbing. We hope for good weather and cool free climbing line!!
Hi all, We arrived tuesday in ittoqotoormiit and wesnesday we started paddling. This is now The fourth day of paddling and we covered about 110 km so we re at more than half… The weather so far been always good but paddling all The day is anyway tough! Today we saw a polar bear and some musk oxes. We plan at least another three days of paddling…
Eine lange Phase der Planung, Organisation und Training nimmt ihr Ende. Nun gilt es den Weg zu Ende zu gehen und ein weiteres grosses Abenteuer zu wagen
Im Anschluss an das JO Lager führten wir noch eine super Hochtour durch: Vom Zwischenbergtal mit Biwak auf den Portjengrat. Heisses uns schönes Wetter begleiteten uns durch diese unberührte Landschaft.