The last climb

Written by Greenland on August 29th, 2014

After a few days of bad weather the sun came back in our base camp and we took the chance for a last ascent. Here the Days are getting shorter and also the temperatures are everyday lower, the good season for rock climbing is probably over and so we decided for a more alpine objective. In 14 hours camp to camp we did the possible first ascent of one of the highest mountains in the range, the route we followed is most likely the easiest line on this mountain and it involves classic snow, ice and mixed terrain for a total of 1800 meters difference in altitude from the base to the summit.
Now we are already back to the fjord and tomorrow we want to start our long way back with kayaks.

 20140827_163412-1
 

An oasis and the artic reality

Written by Greenland on August 25th, 2014

After climbing shark s tooth we didn t rest that much. We took advantage of the last days of good weather for making another climb. We hiked a dozen of km further inside the valley and opened a new route on a 600 meters tall pillar. We named this route oasis because of the warm and pleasant conditions we found during our climb.

Then yesterday the weather turned bad, with rain at the base camp and snow on the mountains. We decided to anticipate our return flight to Iceland on the 11th of september. Therefore the plans for the next days are doing another ascent in the mountains, if the conditions will allow and then start the long way home by foot and kayak to ittoqotoormiit.

20140825_080554-1-1-1

 

 

The great shark hunt

Written by Greenland on August 20th, 2014

On august 18th we arrived on the summit of shark s tooth! We opened a new route in the very center of the north east face. The climb took three days, we climbed all the route onsight with continuous and sustained difficulties. The route follows the obvious crack sistem in the center of the wall, with some traverses for connecting the different cracks. The overall lenght of the route is more than 900 meters, and the rock was not always of the best quality: the crux pitches offered some runouts on loose flakes and poor protections. However we were able to complete our climb without using bolts for free climbing, we put only one for hanging the portaledge and one for a short rappel which the leader free climbed. The fourth day we descended the mountain rappelling the russian route on the arete, thus our line is basically clean as we found it. It was a great team success! We named our route THE GREAT SHARK HUNT to recall the long journey which led us to this summit. Climbing, mountaineering, adventure and life can t be better than this for us. We want to thank everybody who believed and supported our project.

20140820_081715-1-1

 

Written by Greenland on August 15th, 2014

After finishing paddling we had two days of hiking for carrying all the gear to the place where we did the basecamp. We had two long journeys with heavy backpacks to cover the 20-25km on glacier and moraine.This morning the weather it was rainy, thus we took our First rest day after 9 days of no siesta. We packed our bags and tomorrow we are heading to shark s tooth! It s hard to say how the climbing will be since we have never seen the wall from a short distance but we planned 4 days and a half of climbing. We hope for good weather and cool free climbing line!!

 

The artic riviera

Written by Greenland on August 9th, 2014

Hi all, We arrived tuesday in ittoqotoormiit and wesnesday we started paddling. This is now The fourth day of paddling and we covered about 110 km so we re at more than half… The weather so far been always good but paddling all The day is anyway tough! Today we saw a polar bear and some musk oxes. We plan at least another three days of paddling…

image

 

Kajak und Klettern in Ostgrönland – Der Countdown läuft

Written by silvan on August 3rd, 2014

Eine lange Phase der Planung, Organisation und Training nimmt ihr Ende. Nun gilt es den Weg zu Ende zu gehen und ein weiteres grosses Abenteuer zu wagen

 

JO Hochtour Portjengrat

Written by silvan on Juli 29th, 2014

Im Anschluss an das JO Lager führten wir noch eine super Hochtour durch: Vom Zwischenbergtal mit Biwak auf den Portjengrat. Heisses uns schönes Wetter begleiteten uns durch diese unberührte Landschaft.

 

Jugendlager im Valle Orco: Ausbildung zum Riss- und Granitklettern

Written by silvan on Juli 20th, 2014

Im ersten Teil des JO Sommerlagers waren nur die erfahrensten der JO Biel dabei. Während 4 Tagen im Orcotal lernten die talentierten seeländer Nachwuchskletterer vieles über Keile und Friends, Rissklettern und sogar ein Tag technisches Klettern mit Schlaghaken und Bigwallausrüstung.  Strenge und intensive Tage im wunderschönen Orco.

 

Kinder Bergsteiger Lager Susten

Written by Vera on Juli 20th, 2014

Statt viel Sonne, haben wir den Winter nochmals erleben dürfen. Das KIBE-Biel hat Anfang Juli, 4 Tage in der gemütlichen Sustlihütte verbracht. Statt viel klettern durften wir den herrlichen Schnee mit Schneemann bauen und Schneerutschen geniessen. Trotz diesem Wintereinbruch hat es super Spass gemacht. Vielen Dank an das sehr nette Hüttenteam und das ihr alle gekommen sind.

 

Kletterwoche Türkei: Sinter und Spass in Geyik Bairi

Written by silvan on Juni 25th, 2014

Eine Super Kletterwoche von Höhenfieber verbrachten wir im Mai in Antalya. Bestimmt nicht das letzte Mal an diesem gemütlichen und motivierenden Ort. Ein grosses Merci an unsere coole Truppe