Mit einer kleinen aber sehr fitten Gruppe der JO Biel konnten wir letzten Sonntag das Doldenhorn besteigen. Der Galletgrat hatte sicher nicht die besten Bedingungen. Trotzdem kamen wir gut voran. Gratulation an die JO Boys, das war ein guter Effort und ein tolles Erlebnis.
Mit Päscu habe ich den Zustieg zur Fründenhütte etwas versüsst. Plan B ist eine anspruchsvolle aber lohnende Kletterei mit “psychoattraktivem” Ausblick. Der unglaublich blaue Öschinensee hat etwas hypnotisches. Wir kommen wieder. Grosses Merci an Peter von Känel der die meisten Linien dort gebohrt hat. Topos auf www.obsig.ch.
Für Bächli Bergsport durfte ich eine Weiterbildung unter dem Titel “Bigwall” durchführen. Während drei Tagen übten wir den Umgang mit gefühlen Tonnen von Material, aber auch das Freiklettern kam nicht zu kurz. Die Teilnehmer erhielten Einblick in einen Bereich des Kletterns, der sonst nur Spezialisten vorbehalten ist. Bravo für den Einsatz!
Nach dem endlosen Kayaken in Grönland sind Matteo und ich topmotiviert an die Wenden gefahren. Die fehlende Form konnten wir mit der Motivation ausgleichen. Zum Glück ist die Route nur 7 Seillängen lang. So lang hielten unsere Expeditions- geschwächten Arme durch. Ein super schöner Klettertag im besten Fels.
The last days of our expedition contained some spicy and exciting moments: after a rest day due to strong wind, we went back in the kayaks and covered half of the remaining distance to our destination. Just before landing on the shore one of us capsized into the water, luckily with no consequences and just before the place where we planned to sleep. The very same night we slept in an abandoned house and at 5 in the morning we were woken up by a polar bear. The animal was curiously smelling our feet at less than one meter from us. We started yelling and screaming, hitting things on the ground and we managed somehow to scare the bear, which took some distance from us and eventually left. We baptised the bear Berta. She was really cute but too chubby for our taste. So we began our last kayaking day with perfect sea and wind conditions. About 2 hours far from ittoqqotoormit the wind started blowing and our easy last day pleasure cruise suddenly became a regatta race against wind and waves. A proper conclusion for an amazing expedition. We arrived in ittoqotoormiit yesterday afteroon, 32 days after our start. Our trip is now really over. We re looking forward to seeing you all in Italy and Switzerland and tell you more about our adventure.
Matteo, Silvan & Laddy
We are now at more than half of the way back with kayaks. After the first paddling day with good conditions a low pressure system arrived on our area. We had two rest days with strong wind and rain, then despite no big improvements in the weather we decided to restart. Yesterday we paddled 7 hours under constant rain and low temperatures, today luckily the weather got better and we did another full day in the kayaks. We feel now pretty close to our final destination, with good conditions in two days we can be back in ittoqotoormiit. But it s over only when it s over and it s possible that we ll find the most tricky conditions on our very last day.
After a few days of bad weather the sun came back in our base camp and we took the chance for a last ascent. Here the Days are getting shorter and also the temperatures are everyday lower, the good season for rock climbing is probably over and so we decided for a more alpine objective. In 14 hours camp to camp we did the possible first ascent of one of the highest mountains in the range, the route we followed is most likely the easiest line on this mountain and it involves classic snow, ice and mixed terrain for a total of 1800 meters difference in altitude from the base to the summit.
Now we are already back to the fjord and tomorrow we want to start our long way back with kayaks.
After climbing shark s tooth we didn t rest that much. We took advantage of the last days of good weather for making another climb. We hiked a dozen of km further inside the valley and opened a new route on a 600 meters tall pillar. We named this route oasis because of the warm and pleasant conditions we found during our climb.
Then yesterday the weather turned bad, with rain at the base camp and snow on the mountains. We decided to anticipate our return flight to Iceland on the 11th of september. Therefore the plans for the next days are doing another ascent in the mountains, if the conditions will allow and then start the long way home by foot and kayak to ittoqotoormiit.