The great shark hunt

On august 18th we arrived on the summit of shark s tooth! We opened a new route in the very center of the north east face. The climb took three days, we climbed all the route onsight with continuous and sustained difficulties. The route follows the obvious crack sistem in the center of the wall, with some traverses for connecting the different cracks. The overall lenght of the route is more than 900 meters, and the rock was not always of the best quality: the crux pitches offered some runouts on loose flakes and poor protections. However we were able to complete our climb without using bolts for free climbing, we put only one for hanging the portaledge and one for a short rappel which the leader free climbed. The fourth day we descended the mountain rappelling the russian route on the arete, thus our line is basically clean as we found it. It was a great team success! We named our route THE GREAT SHARK HUNT to recall the long journey which led us to this summit. Climbing, mountaineering, adventure and life can t be better than this for us. We want to thank everybody who believed and supported our project.

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