On July 6 we finally got our gear and started straight in the Tasermiut Fjord with our Zodiac. Raising waves slowed us up but we made it safely to the basecamp. While Bernadette was preparing our basecamp I couldn`t wait and already carried the biggest loads at the base of the wall. It was the heaviest bag I`v ever carried on a trip, around 45kg. After three hours I reached the 800m high base of the wall.
July 7 we walk together with the rest of the gear to the base of Ulamertorsuaq. As there was no water on the wall, we had to melt a lot of water from snow at the base. Then we fixed the first two easy pitches and slept in the portaledge on a nice bivy spot.
July 8 was the real start in the wall. Already on the first pitch after the two fixed, we got in troubles. The 70+kg haulbag got stuck and as it was far from the routeline, I had to go down and release it. In the end we almost needed two hours for this pitch and I doubted that this would go well on. But the next pitches turned out to be much faster. This part of the wall was very slaby and the Route Piteraq had long Runouts between the bolts and almost no features to place further pro. Onsighting 7a slabs with dangerous runouts turned out to be my climbing day. And of course hauling up the bag. We slept in the portaledge on the top of pitch 10.
July 9 I started the A3 graded pitch 11. After the first bolt I couldnt go up straight because there was a 10m runout and i would have fallen on the anchor. So I did a very sketchy traverse left . Then it got even harder and I placed a bolt by hand. Bernadette lowered me back to the anchor and I send this pitch second go. It might around 7b, but there are some hard slab sections where falling is forbidden. Further on we reached the heart ledge and I could onsight the following 7b and 7c pitches which are in common with the route war&poetry. I also already worked ou the next pitch (Nr. 15) where I had to place again a bolt to make the traverse out of the big corner possible. We fixed those pitches and bivied on the heart.
July 10 we jumared up and I could send the pitch 15 second go. After the traverse is a 55m Offwidth up to #6. Also pitch 16 was #6 OW for 60m. Thats why I was already pretty tired after this morning. The following pitches were in common with Moby Dick. Super hard finger crack and tips moves kept me busy. Pitch 18 was around 7c and it was one of my hardest onsights in this style ever so far. In the end we slept in the portaledge at anchor 20, freehanging on a very exposed pillar. In the night it became very cold.
July 11 it was super cold and started snowing. As we had no more food and water to wait for better weather, we started rappelling. In the lower slabby part we got completely wet. Blue lips occured in our faces. But finally we made it back to the base camp.